New York Times
Exploring and bringing up the latests trends in the High Jewellery universe, the article “Jewellery Gets Ready to Party”, published by The New York Times, states: “there also has been a turn ‘away from traditional white diamonds, with customers embracing colored diamonds, rare colored stones and tutti-frutti designs.’”
It was during last Paris Fashion Week that brands have caught the attention of the press by presenting jewellery with design, colours and gems much different from what is customary. A visible change was perceived from minimalism to baroque, the preference for coloured gems instead of the more traditional and basic shades. What has been changing as well, besides the clients – a young crowd each time more interested in High Jewellery, patrons that prefer the online universe to purchase for themselves, and not necessarily something that has to have been gifted to them. This new profile of purchase has sought for large earrings (such as hoops), asymmetrical pieces and different gems in the same jewellery. The value is in the unusual design, unexpected, away from the obvious, and no longer the carats of the stones. Jewellery has become a way of expressing one’s individuality, and not status anymore.
To reflect upon the subject, besides renowned designers, Ara vartanian had the opportunity to contribute with his analysis of what makes sense within this movement. Quoted as one of this new generation’s designer for creating pieces such as the Three-Finger Ring, the use of inverted Diamonds and also the Hook Earrings, he points that the world of fashion has changed radically in the last 50 years, but only now has this reached High Jewellery. He reports that the clients no longer want to look like they raided their mother’s jewellery box, which in turn also makes mothers change the way they relate to their pieces, and like their daughters, seek pieces that might express their personalities. This movement gives opportunity to new brands and designers to take their space and the attention of these patrons. Specifically about his brand, Ara says that he creates pieces that his clients can dance and have fun with. For they are like shoes: as amazing as it is and as beautiful as it makes her look, if it is not comfortable it is worthless. His pieces are created thinking about comfort, and that women might enjoy wearing. Their hair might be out of place, but the jewels will be intact, where they are supposed to be.